The Dangers of Surfing and Big Waves and Brain Injuries.

Surfline Magazine published a close up article about surfers and the dangers of brain injuries.  The reporter Tom Dosland took time to interview OneHitAway Foundation and the work it does on behalf of brain healing and brain health for these incredible athletes. Here is one of many segments of the article in which OneHitAway is featured:

“When a brain is injured, when you take a hit on a surfboard or in a boxing ring or on a football field, these are traumatic events,” explained Jill Cde Baca, who co-founded OneHitAway with her husband after their son had a TBI playing football. “They’ll take hit after hit, especially surfers. It happens every time you fall. Your brain is the consistency of butter, and the skull is sharp and hard. So, the brain shakes in there. Over time, areas of the brain overwork or underwork. For instance, the frontal lobe or the forehead, that’s your executive function. That keeps you at your job every day, that keeps you making the right choices, that keeps you being able to reason appropriately. And when you shake the brain forward and backwards, a lot of the time the frontal lobe is impaired.”
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